viagem a auschwitz
Esta era a viagem que queria fazer há muitos anos porque desde os meus 20 e picos anos que queria ir a Auswichtz. Tinha tudo tratado e pago desde Setembro…
O voo durou 3h40 e quando aterrei à hora do almoço estava um pouco perdida porque não encontrava o trem que me levaria até à cidade e a quem eu perguntava também não me explicava lá muito bem. Mas pronto, lá fui no trem até ao centro de Varsóvia. O bilhete custa 3.40zlots – 0.79€ e é para uma viagem de 20 minutos. (Foi o único que tirei para me deslocar em Varsóvia. Estes 20mn bastam.)
O hostel ficava a 800m da estação central de Varsóvia e foi o hostel que mais gostei dos que já conheci. Chama-se “Warsaw Downtown Hostel” e como a Páscoa é uma data muito importante na Polónia, eles fizeram uma festinha com comida tipíca (que desconsolo!) e com algumas pessoas que estavam lá hospedadas. É um hostel que todas as noites às 20h promove uma atividade para as pessoas fazerem em conjunto. As instalações eram giríssimas e o meu quartos era privado e com wc.
Como era Domingo de Páscoa e tudo estava fechado, não tive outra escolha senão voltar ao centro e ir ao Mac. Comi um menu por 11zlost – 2€ e depois fui até ao Hard Rock Café que fica mesmo ao lado. Fui com o intuito de espreitar mas quando vi o preço e principalmente a qualidade da cerveja,fiquei lá até à 1h a beber uns copos e a ouvir música. As imperiais deles são de meio litro e custavam no Hard Rock, 9 zlots – 2€ cada uma.
Quando saí do HR confesso que já vinha bem disposta e ainda tirei umas fotos lá no centro. Estava frio como eu gosto mas nada como estava à espera. Ou seja, fui carregada com cachecóis, uns collants, gorros e luvas. Estava mais frio em Portugal do que na Polónia.
No dia seguinte por volta das 8.45 já estava a percorrer Varsóvia mas não se via ninguém. Para além de ser cedo, na 2ª feira de Páscoa ninguém trabalha e está tudo fechado. Fui até à Praça do Mercado – Rynek Straego Miasta e às 10.30 fiz a 1ª “Walking Free Tour”. É uma coisa que agora faço sempre que viajo pois é a melhor maneira de conhecer as cidades. É grátis e no fim damos o que queremos.
Fiz a “Old Town” e depois às 14h, fiz a “Jewish”.
A comida não é mesmo o forte dos Polacos a não ser a pastelaria. Neste primeiro dia fui almoçar ao “Zapieck” que são uns restaurantes muito conhecidos e claro que comi “Pierogi”. Não me recordo do nome da bebida mas era tipo sangria quente. O shot de vodka a acompanhar não foi pedido, mas faz parte da bebida.
Eles têm uma cadeia de “Cafés Nero” e isso sim foi um sitio que visitei todos os dias. Tudo lá era delicioso! Estes cafés têm um ambiente muito familiar e a decoração é giríssima.
A visita ao “Jewish Ghetto” foi giríssima e o guia contou-nos toda a história e os factos, principalmente do “Uprising – Movimento de Revolta”. Neste ghetto foram colocados todos os judeus de Varsóvia. (Não me vou alongar sobre história mas foi muito, muito enriquecedor.) Estivemos também na zona onde os judeus que foram deportados estavam sentado horas e horas à espera de serem levados nos vagões para Auswichtz. Esta zona agora é um memorial.
No dia seguinte de manhã fui de comboio para Cracóvia. O bilhete custou 135zlots – 33€ e teve a duração de 2h e picos. Comprar o bilhete foi custoso porque nos guichets ninguém fala inglês e a simpatia, tal como a comida, não é o forte dos Polacos. Lá consegui encontrar umas pessoas que têm uns coletes laranjas e que ajudam os turistas nas estações…
Estes comboios têm imensas condições e aparece sempre uma menina que oferece água, café ou chá. Não se pagam estas bebidas.
Quando cheguei a Cracóvia apercebi-me que a cidade era bem diferente de Varsóvia: tudo é mais condensado, a cidade mais pequena, as pessoas mais “urbanas” e mais pessoal jovem. Atravessei a estação e apanhei o trem até ao Bairro “Kazimierz” (Bairro Judeu) que era onde ficava o meu hostel. Aqui as viagens eram mais baratas e paguei 2.80zslots.
O quarto era enorme e muito giro. Não gostei tanto deste hostel porque era muito impessoal e as funcionárias não eram nada simpáticas. Parecia que tudo lhes era um frete.
À tarde dei uma volta na Praça Central que estava cheia de gente e fiz também a “Jewish Free Walking Tour” que adorei! Ao contrário de Varsóvia que o ghetto era só prédios e cimento, aqui as coisas eram bem mais pequeninas e térreas.
Nesta foto é o pátio onde foram filmadas algumas cenas d’ “A Lista de Schindler”.
Passámos também pela “Love Bridge”e pela Praça do Ghetto. Estas cadeiras simbolizam os pertences que os judeus tiveram de trazer quando foram despojados.
 O destino a seguir foi o “Fábrica do Oskar Schindler”. Foi o único museu que fiz sem guia porque pelo que me apercebi, neste museu, só os grupos têm direito a guia. Não aconselho ir assim porque perde-se muita informação…
No dia seguinte fiz a tão esperada viagem a Auswichtz. Como os preços são todos muito em conta, preferi ir numa visita organizada. Paguei 140zlots – 32€ e veio um senhor de uma empresa buscar-me ao hotel, levou-me numa mini van, juntamente com outros turistas. Depois fez o também o transporte de Auswichtz a Birkenau II (são 3km) e no final deixou-nos nos nossos hotéis. É a maneira mais confortável, na minha opinião.
A visita foi feita com guia e durou toda a manhã. 2.30h no primeiro campo e 1.30 no segundo. Não vou relatar o que vi porque todos sabemos mas posso dizer-vos que sai-se de lá como se um comboio nos tivesse atropelado. Também optei por colocar fotos apenas do exterior.
Depois desta manhã, nada como a tarde nos petiscos. A “street food” deles é muito boa e o que mais gostei foram as “Zapeinkankas”. Eu que não sou apreciadora de cerveja, esta era viciante porque ao contrário da nossa, não é nada pesada.
No dia seguinte fui às famosas “Minas de Sal”. São 20mn de comboio e à entrada paguei 94zlots – 21€. Não é decididamente o meu tipo de local a visitar mas realmente é magistral. Tudo é construído abaixo da terra.
Fui também dar a voltinha no “bus turístico”. Não escolhi a opção “hop on e hop of”, fiz apenas a volta completa que demorou 1h20. Paguei 40zslots – 9€.
No dia seguinte voltei a Varsóvia e fui visitar o “Uprising Museum – Museu da Revolta”. É lindíssimo e vale mesmo a pena!
Esta última noite fiquei num hotel e não num hostel. São os chamados “hotels low budget”. São simpáticos e em conta, pois paguei 35€ mas eu continuo a preferir os hostels.
No dia seguinte fui ao “Jewish Museum” e este foi sem dúvida o que mais gostei. Paguei 35zlots com audio em inglês. Esta exposição é muito completa e lindíssima.
Foram 6 dias espetaculares! Aulas de história ao vivo com o bónus de ser tudo baratíssimo. Apenas não gostei da falta de simpatia e disponibilidade dos Polacos. Existem excepções mas a maioria é mesmo assim…

205 thoughts on “Varsóvia e Cracóvia – Março 2016

    1. O Anfitrião de Lisboa: Não sei se é um bom roteiro de viagens porque não sei dar dicas, nem aconselhar. Apenas mostro-vos como são as minhas viagens mas obrigada pelo elogio 🙂

  1. Que bela viagem. 🙂 Estás a tornar-te uma viajante profissional.
    Parece ter sido fantástica a viagem mas, se já quis muito visitar os campos de concentração, neste momento já não tenho essa vontade. Há alguns anos que me passou.
    Fui ver a casa de Anne Frank, em Amesterdão (que adorei) mas foi o suficiente…

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